Introduction
I’ve been living in Playa del Carmen for 25 years.
When I first arrived, this was just a small town — peaceful, surrounded by endless beaches of clean, soft sand. Every beach felt untouched, and nature was perfectly balanced.
Human presence brings comfort, development, and modern services, but it also brings pollution, deforestation, and erosion. As Playa del Carmen grew, not all of its environmental rules were respected. Construction limits for hotels and houses near the coast were ignored or corrupted, and as a result, many of the once-paradisiacal beaches have disappeared.
Today, I can’t recommend any beach right in the center of Playa del Carmen — especially not between Avenida Constituyentes and Calle Juárez, where the sand is mostly gone.
And before I go on, I want to make something clear:
No one pays me for my recommendations.
I don’t receive free meals, free stays, or any kind of sponsorship.
My blogs are genuine, written from experience and honesty. I’m against fake or paid recommendations because they distort what travelers really need — truth. I consider myself a true local expert, and everything I recommend is based on where I personally go with my family and my friends when they visit.
Development
Luckily, not all the beaches near Playa del Carmen have suffered the same fate.
There are still hidden gems where nature remains strong and the Caribbean shines in its purest form.
One of my absolute favorites is Xpu-Ha Beach — a beautiful stretch of soft white sand and turquoise water. What makes it special is that you can swim directly to the coral reef for free. In many places, you’d need to pay a cooperative fee, but here, the reef is accessible and open to everyone.
The entrance fee to Xpu-Ha is only 50 pesos (about 2.5 USD).
If you prefer comfort, you can visit La Playa Xpu-Ha Beach Club, where the entrance is 200 pesos, fully refundable in food and drinks. From 2:00 to 4:00 p.m., there’s live music every day, and on weekends, the atmosphere turns festive with a larger Cuban salsa band.
There are a few other beach clubs nearby, like Serenity, but my favorite one is La Playa Xpu-Ha — it’s exactly what people dream of when they think of a tropical Mexican beach: relaxed, colorful, and authentic. Prices are fair, and the service feels honest, not commercial. You can even rent a small palapa and bring your own cooler, which is rare these days.
(I’m adding photos taken by me — both drone shots and on-foot pictures — as well as a short video and coral reef images.)
A Local Tip
Bring your own snorkel gear to Xpu-Ha!
The reef is close, and you’ll see plenty of fish. Before buying new equipment, check out my blog about snorkel gear recommendations, including a simple guide on how to keep your mask from fogging up. It will save you money and make your snorkeling experience way better.
Other Beautiful Beaches Nearby
Another beautiful area worth mentioning is Paamul Beach, especially the zone near Hotel Circus Paamul. The beach there is gorgeous and peaceful, though once you move away from the hotel area, it becomes more rustic and less maintained.
And just for context, before Xpu-Ha became my favorite, Tulum used to be my top beach destination.
Back then, it was magical — quiet, spiritual, and natural. But sadly, over the years, Tulum lost its balance. Prices skyrocketed, the service didn’t improve, and the focus shifted toward making as much money as possible from tourists, without caring for the environment or the visitor experience.
Today, Tulum has a reputation for being overpriced and poorly managed, and while it still has beauty, it’s no longer the same paradise it once was.
How to Get There
Xpu-Ha is located about 20 minutes south of Playa del Carmen, or 35 minutes from most hotels in town. It’s only 3 minutes past Puerto Aventuras.
You can reach it by van, colectivo, or taxi.
A taxi ride costs around 25 USD and takes about 20 minutes.
Conclusion
Even though Playa del Carmen’s central beaches have changed, the Caribbean spirit is still alive — you just have to go a bit beyond the main town.
For me, Xpu-Ha Beach represents what Playa del Carmen used to be: genuine, beautiful, and full of life.
It’s not about luxury or marketing; it’s about nature, family, and enjoying a perfect day by the sea — the real way locals do.
